Below is a comprehensive guide to caring for axolotls. We strongly recommend that you read this guide all the way through prior to obtaining any axolotls. If you have any further questions, please reach out and contact us with your questions.
Please keep in mind that Axolotl Galaxy will only ship axolotls within the United States (excluding California, Maine, New Jersey, and The District of Columbia). If you are not within The United States, feel free to learn more about axolotl care, however you may not order any axolotls from Axolotl Galaxy.
Table of Contents
- What is an axolotl?
- What is external axolotl anatomy?
- Feeding Axolotls
- Can I hold an axolotl?
- What is the ideal temperature?
- What are the ideal water parameters?
- Water Cycling
- Water Changes
- What do I buy?
- Aquarium
- Filter
- Water Conditioner
- Salt Mix
- Worms
- Thermometer
- Bacteria
- Enrichment
- Live Plants (optional)
- Water Testing Kit
- Axolotl (obviously)
- What color morphs are there?
- How to keep more than one axolotl? (within the same aquarium)
- What don’t I buy?
- Abnormalities and Sickness
What is an axolotl?
Axolotls are a species of fully aquatic salamander native to Lake Xochimilco in Mexico City, Mexico. They spend their time fully submerged in water, crawling around in the mud, and looking for food. Unlike typical salamanders, which transition from an aquatic juvenile state to an land-based adult state, axolotls remain in an aquatic "juvenile" state even into adulthood.
While axolotls are sometimes referred to as the Mexican walking fish", they are not fish, they are amphibians. Additionally, they are not lizards. Lizards are reptiles.
What is external axolotl anatomy?
Healthy and well-fed axolotls have large heads approximately the same width as the fattest part of their bodies.
Axolotls also have mouths, which operate as a sort of a vacuum to consume food. They also use these mouths to occasionally gulp air, snap around, or yawn.Axolotls that are sleeping will sometimes appear paler than usual due to the decreased bloodflow caused by decreased activity.
Eyes
Axolotls have eyes, which they use to look around, though generally not very well. The eyesight of albino morphs (axolotls with transparent/translucent eyes) is often worse than those with black eyes. Any variant of axolotl should have a minimum of 12 hours of darkness daily.
Axolotls do not have eyelids, making them sensitive to light. As they do not have eyelids, you cannot tell if an axolotl is asleep based on if their eyes are open or closed.
Feet/Legs
Axolotls have four legs. The front legs have four toes each, while the back legs have five toes each (That is a total of 18 toes). An axolotls feet are used for crawling around.
While axolotls will sometimes use their legs for swimming, they will often tuck their legs close to their bodies, wiggling their entire bodies while swimming. They tend to use their legs more when swimming vertically, and less when swimming horizontally (though this is not always the case).
Gills
On either side of an axolotls head, there is a set of three gills (for a total of 6). The gills are used for breathing.
Tail
Axolotls have long tails, which are typically be the same length as their bodies. Aka - the tail is half the length. Adult axolotls can get up to 18" in length (though they typically average at a bit smaller, around 9-10"). The tails are used for swimming and balance.
Is my axolotl Male or Female?
It is impossible to tell if a juvenile axolotl is male or female. An axolotl with testes (a large, visible bulge behind the hind legs) is male. Axolotls will typically develop these anywhere from 9 to 18 months. If the testes are absent by 18 months, the axolotl is female.
Regenerative Capabilities
Axolotls have the unique ability to regenerate nearly any part of their bodies including all of their limbs, tails, gills, and even parts of their brain and heart.
Body parts grow back slowly. This process can be assisted via the presence of something releasing tannins into the water, such as Indian almond leaves.
Though it is rare, some axolotls (particularily those with poor genetics) lack the ability to regenerate their body parts adequately, sometimes resulting in legs remaining missing.
Even in healthy axolotls, sometimes injured or missing gills or toes do not grow back at the correct angle, resulting in mild physical deformities, such as crooked toes or forked gills.
Please do not harm your axolotl for the purposes of observing these regenerative capabilities. They are still living creatures capable of experiencing pain.
Feeding Axolotls
While males tend to be slimmer than females, and there is some natural variation from axolotl to axolotl, a general rule of thumb is that the widest part of an axolotl’s body should be the same width as its head. These animals rarely overeat, and will generally ignore excess food.
Axolotls should be fed daily, however, they are able to go a day or two without a meal. While all pets should be well fed, it is critical that any axolotls kept with one another are well-fed. Improperly fed cohabitated axolotls will treat one another as readily available food sources. If you have more than one axolotl in the same aquarium, and you see missing appendages, then one or more of those axolotls are not being fed enough.
Note: Sometimes, the missing toes and gills are due to aggression rather than malnutrition. While we here at Axolotl Galaxy do our best to breed axolotls with proper and friendly temperament, be prepared to separate your axolotls into their own individual aquariums if they don’t get along even with enough space and a proper food schedule.
Axolotl Staple Diet Guide
Below is a table demonstrating the ideal prey items for axolotls according to the size of the axolotl.
| Axolotl Size | Prey Item |
|---|---|
| Under 1 inch | Freshy Hatched Baby Brine Shrimp |
| 1-2 inches | Live Blackworms |
| 3 inches | One Live Red Wiggler Worm |
| 4 inches | Two Live Red Wiggler Worms |
| 5 inches | Three Live Red Wiggler Worm |
| 6 inches | Four Live Red Wiggler Worm or 1 European Nightcrawler |
| 7-8 inches | 1 European Nightcrawler |
| 9-12 inches | 2 European Nightcrawlers |
| 14-18 inches | 3 European Nightcrawlers |
Worms may either be dropped into the aquarium within the general vicinity of the axolotl, or provided using curved feeding tongs (with the tip of the tongs facing away from the axolotl to prevent injury). Do not worry too much if the axolotl misses the worm on the first try, just wait for it to try again.
If you have more than one axolotl in the same aquarium, be quick about providing them their worms. Sometimes, if there is seemingly only one worm available, two axolotls will attempt to eat the same worm and wrestle with it until it breaks.
Pellets?
Carnivore sinking pellets, axolotl pellets, protein pellets, or as I like to call it, kibble. There is nothing inherently wrong with feeding your axolotl pellet food. Some of them even prefer it over worms.
Note: All axolotls have their own food preferences. If your axolotl is refusing to eat, try changing what you are providing it for food.
Pellets are not bad for your axolotl, but they can pollute the water. If you feed your axolotl pellets, be sure to remove any uneaten food from the aquarium as it starts to decay. Keep track of how many pellets you are providing your axolotl to assess how much it is actually eating.
We suggest alternating between pellets and live worms to provide some variety for your axolotl. Pellets can also be a great source of food for sick or weakened axolotls that may not be able to handle live prey.
Please keep in mind that axolotls under 3 inches in length will generally refuse non-living food items and are likely to ignore pellets.
Repashy Grub Pie?
Grub pie is a powder that can be mixed with water to make gelatin pellets to be fed to (among other creatures) axolotls. Overall, this is the same deal as with the pellets. It is better to alternate this with other food sources rather than to use as the one and only food source for your axolotl.
Uneaten grub pie will also pollute the water if not removed. Some axolotls prefer to eat this over other food options. Be sure to monitor your axolotl's size over time to ensure that it is eating appropriately.
Grub pie is a great option for sick or weakened axolotls being tubbed (placed in a small tub of water for medical treatment) that may not be able to handle a live worm (even healthy axolotls will occasionally lose fights to worms).
Please keep in mind that axolotls under 3 inches in length will generally refuse non-living food items and are likely to ignore grub pie.
Bloodworms?
Bloodworms can be fed to axolotls as an occasional snack/treat and should not comprise of the axolotl’s primary diet as they possess little to no nutritional value to the axolotl.
Ghost Shrimp
Live ghost shrimp can be provided to adult axolotls as a treat. Do not rely on ghost shrimp as your axolotl’s primary diet at any point, as they are often faster than axolotls, and not all axolotls are skilled at hunting. There is a chance you may end up having a shrimp and axolotl aquarium if your axolotl is disintrested in the new treat.
Guppeis
Guppies can be provided as feeders to adult axolotls, however they should not be the axolotl’s primary diet. Axolotls fed primarily fish will become bloated. Like with shrimp, not all axolotls will be interested in hunting the fish, so you may end up having a guppy and axolotl aquarium. If your axolotl is interested in the feeder, alternate between worms and fish.
Can I hold an axolotl?
Axolotls are not meant to be held. Axolotls are delicate, fragile creatures with bodies coated in a thin mucus layer known as a slime coat. This slime coat can absorb the oils from your hands, causing the axolotl to become sick. You must thoroughly wash your hands with warm water and soap prior to touching any axolotls.
While adult axolotls do have lungs in addition to gills (they occasionally swim up to the surface of their aquariums to gulp air) they do not tolerate being outside of water for longer than a few seconds or a few minutes, and should not be removed from full submersion in water.
However, there are occasionally situations where an axolotl may be handled (and not by children). If you are upgrading your axolotl to a larger aquarium, or moving a sick axolotl to a tub to be treated, the axolotl must be moved somehow. Ideally, this should be done with a fine mesh aquarium net. However, larger adult axolotls can be difficult to comfortably catch with a net.
In the absence of or inability to use a fine mesh aquarium net, make sure that your hands are cleaned thoroughly with soap and water. If you are not positive that you can catch your axolotl as gently as possible, let it go and try again. It is better to make multiple attempts rather than accidentally squeeze or scratch your axolotl. You especially do not want to damage the axolotl’s slime coat. Use both hands, and make the transfer as brief as possible.
Looking for a pet that you can handle outside of rare and highly specific circumstances? Do not get an axolotl. The purpose of pet axolotls is to look pretty. If you really want an axolotl that you can handle on a regular basis, get a plushie.
Excessive touching/handling of an axolotl (especially with unwashed hands) can increase the risk of a fungal infection (treatable with salt mix).
What is the ideal temperature?
Axolotls are a cold water species preferring temperatures in the 64°F-68°F (17°C-20°C) range.
Temperatures above 68°F/20°C will make your axolotl sick, with temperatures at or above 72°F/22°C often proving to be fatal.
Temperatures below 64°F/17°C are generally safe for axolotls. Adult axolotls kept closer to 60°F/15°C may become sexually active. This will not always occur but is more likely at lower temperatures. Male axolotls will produce white blobs known as sperm cones while females will produce eggs. It is more common for males to attempt to reproduce without a female present than it is for females to attempt to reproduce without a male present.
Eggs produced without a male present will be infertile and remain opaque spheres, rather than develop into tiny axolotls. Axolotls can produce quite a lot of eggs at a time, ranging from a few hundred to over a thousand. If not separated from their eggs, axolotls will generally eat their own eggs.
Sperm cones produced without a female present, will simply sit there unused until they are removed. Males will sometimes attempt to reproduce with one another, especially at lower temperatures.
It is advised for inexperienced keepers to avoid attempting to breed axolotls together. Keep your axolotl as a solitary pet, keep several in separate aquariums, or keep males with males or females with females. Most people are not prepared to handle hundreds of baby axolotls.
Additionally, if you acquired multiple axolotls around the same size from the same source, there is a high likelihood that those axolotls are siblings, and any offspring would be inbred.
What are the ideal water parameters?
- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrite: 0 ppm
- Nitrate: Less than 40 ppm
- pH: 7.4-7.8
ppm = parts per million
If you notice that your water parameters are incorrect, do a 50-75% water change immediately
Water Cycling
Cycling a tank is very important to establishing the proper water conditions for any aquatic species. Cycling a tank is where you introduce beneficial bacteria into your system. This bacteria is required to convert the ammonia found in the waste of fish (and axolotls) into nitrates. Managing tank waste is important to keeping your animals happy and healthy.
Through a two-stage process, the bacteria converts the ammonia into nitrites, then the nitrites into nitrates.
The bacteria responsible for this conversion are:
- Nitrosomonas (converts ammonia into nitrite)
- Nitrobacter (converts nitrite into nitrate)
- Nitrospira (converts nitrite into nitrate)
We sell this bacteria in a bottle, so that you can add it to your tank prior to adding animals. It is impossible for a tank to cycle without something inside it producing waste, so add whatever you’re planning on having live in there soon after adding the bacteria. Trying to cycle a tank without a living creature to produce waste will cause the cycle to stall.
The use of a water testing kit is critical to monitoring the levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in your tank.
Water Changes
Necessary for any aquatic pet – a water change is when some or most of the water in a tank is removed and replaced with fresh water. This can be done using a water pump or a siphon. Which you use will vary depending on the size of your tank and what is convenient for you.
How frequently you do water changes, and what percentage of water you remove and replace will vary depending on how big or established the aquarium in question is.
For the first month, we recommend 50% water changes weekly, followed by 50% water changes every two weeks thereafter. Don’t forget to treat your water with dechlorinater as needed. Test the water using a liquid water testing kit prior to water changes to make sure that the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels are as appropriate.
An axolotl in a small plastic tub (either for medical treatment or as temporary housing) would require daily 100% water changes wherein all of the water is removed and replaced.
What do I buy?
So you’ve decided that you would like to acquire an axolotl. Excellent decision. Here’s what you get.
First, you need an aquarium. For a single adult axolotl, the minimum amount of space for that axolotl to be comfortable is 40 gallons. For every additional axolotl in an aquarium, increase the size of the aquarium by 10-15 gallons. Smaller, juvenile axolotls may be kept temporarily in smaller aquariums, but be prepared to upgrade the aquarium once it grows in size. Remember – bigger is always better for any animal living in an enclosed space.
Axolotls produce a lot of waste (aka, they poop A LOT) so you’re going to need a decent filter. Water flow within an aquarium should be kept to a minimum. Axolotls prefer slow or still water. While freshly hatched baby axolotls require sponge filters, most older axolotls will do best with a hang-on-back-filter. Make sure that whatever filter you get is rated for the size of your aquarium. If keeping more than one axolotl in the same aquarium, use a filter rated for slightly bigger aquariums.
Worms! Depending on the size of your axolotl, you will have to feed it either red wiggler worms or European nightcrawlers.
As axolotls are temperature-sensitive, it is important to have an aquarium thermometer! If you do not have a location to put your axolotls that will keep them within the proper temperature range (such as a basement) you will need a fan or a chiller to keep your aquarium cold. This will vary based on where you live and what temperature you keep your house.
To start your aquarium’s cycle, you will need live nitrifying bacteria. This bacteria will convert ammonia (found in axolotl waste) into nitrites and the nitrites into nitrates. FritzZyme 7 is recommended.
For enrichment, be sure to decorate your enclosure. Things such as pvc pipes and ceramic pots (not painted) can be used as hides for your axolotl. Typical aquarium decor, such as plastic/silicone plants, caves, driftwood, air stones (for oxygenation & amusement), castles, etc are also acceptable for axolotls. Axolotls enjoy opportunities to climb and hide, and will be bored in an empty enclosure. To help your axolotl utilize as much space in its aquarium as possible, consider adding platforms to the sides of the tank for the axolotl to sit on. (While hammocks are more heavily advertised, we suggest platforms meant for turtles – though fully submerged, of course. They tend to stick better to the sides of the aquarium, as they are meant for heavier animals, and axolotls tend to prefer the solid structrues compared to hammocks.)
Any live plants added to an axolotl’s aquarium must be a cold water species tolerant of little to no substrate and low lighting conditions. If a plant does not meet these care requirements, it will be incompatible with an axolotl.
What color morphs are there?
Green Fluorescent Protein (Sometimes shortened to G.F.P.)
Axolotls labeled as GFP Will glow green when exposed to black or blue LED lighting. Ultraviolet black lights are very bright. This brightness is unpleasant to axolotls, as they do not have eyelids. For this reason, avoid or minimize axolotl exposure to black lighting. When lighter colored axolotls are GFP, sometimes it is possible to see a subtle greenish or yellowish hue under normal lighting. In darker colored axolotls that are GFP, sometimes the eyes will appear green under normal lighting. The intensity in which a GFP axolotl will glow will vary from axolotl to axolotl.
Wild Type
Within the axolotl pet trade, wild type refers to the coloration of the axolotl. This is not an indicator that the axolotl has been taken from the wild, but rather an indication the axolotl in question is the most common or default coloration. Similar to how they would look in the wild without selective breeding, wild type axolotls generally appear brown, sometimes with green or yellow mixed in. Wilds are sometimes differentiated as light or dark depending on their overall appearance. Their gills vary from deep magenta to dark gray or black. They typically have black eyes surrounded by gold reflective eye rings. Wilds typically have a pattern of some kind, generally involving spots.
Starburst Wild
Starburst wilds look very similar to typical wilds. However, they are generally darker in color and have large iridophores that cover most of their body. Generally, they appear black (or very dark brown with shiny spots throughout their bodies. Like normal wilds, they have black eyes with reflective eyerings, and their gills can vary from pink to dark gray or black.
Melanoid (Sometimes shortened to Mel)
Melanoid axolotls typically appear as solid black, but have a subtle color range from medium gray to dark black. They have solid black eyes. Melanoid (or mel variants) axolotls never have reflective or shiny eyerings.
Axanthic
Axanthic axolotls typically appear gray in color with somewhat of a spotted pattern. They may appear white around the edges. Axanthics lack pigment. They have black eyes with black eyerings. Their gills can range in color from gray to black.
Golden Albino
Golden albino axolotls have reflective eyerings and transparent pupils. Their gills can range in color from various shades of pink to gold. Their bodies can range between different shades of gold, from pale yellow to deep orange.
High White Golden Albino
These albino axolotls look similar to regular golden albinos, but have large white patches found throughout their bodies.
High Iridiophore Golden Albinos
These axolotls look similar to regular golden albinos, but have large shiny bits covering their bodies.
Melanoid Albino
Melanoid albino axolotls have bodies ranging in color from white to pale yellow to light pink. Sometimes, they have darker yellow markings throughout their bodies. Their gills range in color from light pink to deep red. Their eyes range in color from yellow to transparent to red to light pink. They have non-reflective eyerings.
Leucistic (Sometimes shortened to lucy/leucy)
Leucistic axolotls have bodies that range from white to light pink in color. Their gills are typically pink. They generally have silver or gold reflective eyerings and black pupils.
Melanoid Leucistic (Sometimes shortened to mel lucy/leucy)
Melanoid leucistic axolotls overall look very similar to leucistics. They have bodies that are light pink or white and pinkish gills. They difference is that these axolotls have no iridophores, and therefore have black eyerings.
Dirty Leucistic (Sometimes shortened to dirty lucy/leucy)
Dirty lucys appear similar to regular lucys, but have brown spots on the top of their heads. Sometimes, these spots can continue down to their backs. The quantity/density of these spots will vary from axolotl to axolotl.
White Albino
White albino axolotls have completely white bodies. They can have shiny bits on their gills and reflective eyerings. Their gills sometimes appear pink.
Axanthic Albino
Axanthic albino axolotls lack all pigment, have transparent eyes, and have non-reflective eyerings. They appear pale pink in color with pink gills.
Copper
Copper axolotls are, well, copper! They have the coloration resembling that of a new American penny. These axolotls are shiny with gold reflective eyerings and red or black pupils. Their gills are typically darker than their bodies, though still appearing shiny. Light coppers are lighter in color than regular coppers.
Copper Axanthic
Copper axanthics look very similar to regular coppers, but without the shiny iridophores. They have a somewhat purple hue to their bodies and black eyerings.
Copper Melanoid
Copper melanoids look similar to copper axanthics, but have darker copper colored bodies. They also have black eyerings.
Melanoid Axanthic Copper (Sometimes shortened to M.A.C.)
MACs do not have any shiny bits. Their bodies also have a chocolatey color, and they have black eyerings.
Non-Albino Golen (Sometimes shortened to N.A.G.)
These axolotls are very shiny with silver eyerings and black-tipped tails. Their bodies are similar in color to that of a light copper. These are very rare, and tend to be smaller than typical axolotls, as well as sterile.
Mosaic
Mosaics occur randomly when two or more morphs blend together. This is quite uncommon and cannot be specifically bred for.
Lighteningbug/Firefly
These are axolotls that are cosmetically altered. They have the appearance of having two separate and distinct colors. This effect is created via cutting the tails off of two axolotls and swapping them. The finished look will vary depending on what axolotls were involved in the process. For example, a melanoid with the tail of a leucistic will appear black with a white tail. Axolotl Galaxy does not and never will produce any axolotls of this nature.
How to keep more than one axolotl? (within the same aquarium)
If you are planning on having more than one axolotl in the same tank, there are a few things that you need to keep in mind.
First, make sure that the axolotls are around the same size. If one of the axolotls is significantly bigger than the other, the smaller one may be at risk of getting injured or even eaten entierly. While axolotls can regenerate limbs, there is not much one can do when faced with a larger and potentially territorial (or hungry) tankmate.
A divider is not enough to protect a juvenile axolotl from an adult. Axolotls are curious creatures will attempt to cross a partition in any way possible. If you have an adult axolotl and a juvenile axolotl, and wish to keep them together in the same aquarium at some point, keep them separated in different aquariums until the juvenile grows up to approximately the same size as the adult.
The number of places to hide within an aquarium should correspond to or exceed the number of axolotls within the same aquarium. They all need opportunities to hide from one another to avoid getting stressed out.
Finally, keep axolotls of the same sex together. Do not keep a male and a female axolotl within the same aquarium, unless you are an experienced breeder prepared to deal with hundreds (potentially over a thousand) of axolotl eggs. While they are very cute, most people are not prepared to handle this scenario. Furthermore, the female will be bred to death if not separated from the male.
Please note that a divider will not prevent a male and a female axolotl from reproducing with one another within the same enclosure. Axolotls do not require physical contact with one another to reproduce.
What don’t I buy?
Aloe
Avoid any products containing aloe, as it is toxic for axolotls.
Substrate
Axolotls are better off without substrate. Why? They will eat it.
This isn’t always intentional. As mentioned previously, axolotls create a vacuum with their mouths whenever they attempt to consume food. Any substrate that is in the path of this suction will also be consumed.
There are no circumstances in which it is appropriate to put axolotls in aquariums with gravel substrate. Axolotls in aquariums with gravel will end up eating the gravel.
If you have an axolotl in an aquarium with gravel substrate, and you notice that your axolotl is becoming skinny, its front arms start shrugging up oddly, its mouth opens in an odd way, and its lower jaw starts to become misshapen, the axolotl is slowly choking to death. Remove all gravel immediately and hope for the best.
If you really cannot stand the sight of a bare-bottom aquarium, you may use extra fine sand as substrate. Axolotls smaller than six inches in length still should not be on sand, as they will not be able to safely pass it through their systems.
Do not put anything in an axolotl’s aquarium that has sharp edges or could cause harm to the creature.
Most Fish
It is generally recommended to keep axolotls without other species (aside from feeders). This is for a number of reasons.
First, axolotls are a cold-water species. There are few fish in the pet trade that are comfortable within the same parameters that make an axolotl comfortable.
Second, axolotls are delicate, squishy, quiet, and defenseless animals. Many fish are prone to nipping at axolotl gills, which will upset and disturb the axolotl.
Thirdly, axolotls have a large bioload (aka, they poop a lot). It is important to keep your aquarium clean, and this will only become more difficult when adding additional species.
Snails
It is not advised to keep snails with axolotls. If an axolotl attempts to eat a snail, they may choke on the shell. If a snail attaches itself to an axolotl, it will attempt to eat the axolotl’s slime coat. Either way, there is a high risk for problems for the axolotl.
Abnormalities and Sickness
Red Axolotl
Sometimes, axolotls are red or pink in color, and there is no cause for concern. The captive breeding of axolotls has resulted in numerous striking color morphs.
If you have an axolotl that was not previously pink or red that is suddenly appearing pink or red, especially if accompanied by shrinking gills, this is a sign of ammonia burn (or otherwise poor water quality). Do an immediate water change, as directed by the above water change guide.
If your axolotl was previously red or pink in color, and this coloration has become significantly more intense, then this is still a sign of ammonia burn.
Axolotl Not Eating
If your axolotl is refusing to eat, and nothing about its water parameters or aquarium set up is different from what is described throughout this care guide, this could be a sign that your axolotl does not like the food that is being provided. Try switching to a different food source.
If your axolotl is attempting to eat, but keeps spitting the worm out or is otherwise struggling to consume it, the worm is too big. Cut the worm into smaller pieces. Feed the tail end of the worm (the skinnier side) and try offering it to the axolotl. Or, try a smaller worm variant.
Fungus
The most common type of fungus which can affect axolotls is white and fluffy, similar to a stretched out cotton ball. This most commonly appears at the feet, tip of tail, and gills of your axolotl. This can be quickly and easily treated using salt mix.
If you see a strange growth on your axolotl, the odds are very high that it is fungus and can be treated with salt mix. You can minimize the risk of your axolotl contracting fungus by limiting how often you touch your axolotl (either do not touch it or wash your hands THOROUGHLY with soap and water) and keeping the axolotl’s water clean and within the appropriate temperature range.