Table of Contents
Introduction
What even is an axolotl?
Where do they come from, originally?
Appearance
So how big do they get?
What are those fluffy things on either side of their heads?
How do I know if my axolotl is overweight/underweight?
Feeding
What do they eat?
How often do you feed them?
What if my axolotl isn't eating?
Enclosure
Tank Size
Co-Habing
Other Animals
Accessories
Substrate
Water Cycling
... and about bacteria
Water Changes
Ideal water perameters
Color Variations
What To Get
Introduction
What even is an axolotl?
Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders. That means that these amphibians spend their lives in water. While they can technically survive for a few minutes out of water, they’re happier if they don’t have to. If you are looking for a pet that you can handle and hold, look elsewhere!
Where do they come from, originally?
Axolotls originate from a handful underground lakes located in the caves underneath Mexico City, Mexico. Due to a number of factors, such as pollution and the introduction of invasive species of fish, axolotls are considered critically endangered in the wild. Due to this status, it is illegal to remove wild axolotls from the wild. (Note that all of our axolotls are captive bred, and thus legal to own.)
Please note that while Axolotl Galaxy will only ship axolotls within The United States, we will not ship axolotls to New Jersey, The District of Columbia, California, or Maine. This is due to the fact that these states prohibit ownership of axolotls. If you live in one of these states, consider ordering a stuffed axolotl, rather than a live one.
Appearance
So how big do they get?
Freshly hatched Axolotls start off barely the size of a grain of rice, a size far too small for purchase. Growing quickly at around 1 inch per month, these fragile babies become adoptable juveniles once they reach around 2-3inches. At around 4-6inches, we consider an Axolotl to be a sub-adult. Once an Axolotl is more than 6inches long from head to tail tip, we’re ready to call that an adult Axolotl. While final size can vary from Axolotl to Axolotl (with an average size of around 9inches) fully grown adults can reach up to around 18 inches in length!
What are those fluffy things on either side of their heads?
Axolotls have external gills. They are used for breathing. While the exact size of an axolotl's gills can vary, big fluffy gills are a good sign that that axolotl is healthy.
How do I know if my axolotl is overweight/underweight?
The thickest part of an axolotl's body should be approximately the same width as its head.
Why does my axolotl sometimes look very pale?
Sometimes, axolotls will appear paler in color while asleep. It can be tricky to tell if your axolotl is sleeping, as they do not have eyelids. If your axolotls coloration ranges from normal to sometimes pale, then this is likely simply due to the animal being asleep or otherwise inactive.
Why does my axolotl look red?
If your axolotl appears red, and it is not a color variation that typically appears red (or if there is other vibrant pink streaks or discoloration that were not previously present) then this can be a sign of ammonia burn. When in doubt, check your water parameters with a liquid water testing kit (not the strips) and do a water change as needed.
Feeding
What do they eat?
What an axolotl eats will vary depending on its size. Axolotls are carnivores, though they lack teeth or claws.
Freshly hatched axolotls will eat live baby brine shrimp (ever seen sea monkeys? That's what those are).
Axolotls that are too big to fill up on live brine shrimp (but too small to eat live red wiggler worms) are fed live blackworms.
Juvenile axolotls (ones that are big enough to sell) eat live red wiggler worms. Juvenile axolotls can also eat axolotl pellets (also known as salmon sinking pellets), or grub pie.
Sub-adult axolotls can eat live european nightcrawlers, grub pie, or adult axolotl pellets. Small feeder fish (like guppies) can be provided for larger axolotls, but should not be the primary diet. Live ghost shrimp may be added to an adult axolotl's aquarium as a treat, but keep in mind that this prey item may be a bit fast for most axolotls, and cannot be relied on as a primary food source.
How often do you feed them?
We recommend that you feed your Axolotl 1-2 appropriately sized worms daily. Simply clean off the worm, then use a set of curved feeding tongs (with the tip facing away from the Axolotl) to safely present the worm to be eaten. Axolotls have poor eyesight, so don’t worry too much if they miss the worm on the first try.
Worms are the best staple diet for axolotls. Pellets and grub pie often pollute tank water, and a steady diet of fish will result in a bloated axolotls. However, if you are able to do so, try cycling between different meal options to keep your axolotl enriched, and to find that particular creatures's preferences.
What if my axolotl isn't eating?
If your axolotl is attempting to eat, but keeps spitting the worm out, try cutting the worm into smaller pieces. Continue to feed the axolotl halved (or smaller as needed) sections of worm until it is able to consume the worm whole without struggling.
If your axolotl is completely refusing to eat check to confirm that all of the water parameters are correct. If they are correct, look for signs of illness. If nothing seems wrong, try feeding again the following day. If the axolotl continues to refus to eat, try changing the diet of the axolotl. Some axolotls do have meal preferences.
Enclosure
Any enclosure you have is going to require a filter and frequent water changes.
Tank Size
For an adult axolotl, a bare minimum aquarium size of 40 gallons is required. For any additional axolotls sharing the same aquarium, be sure that the aquarium has a minimum of an additional 10 gallons of space per additional axolotl. You can always have a bigger tank. Bigger is always better when it comes to keeping any living creature in an enclosed space.
If you are looking to start off with a smaller aquarium for a juvenile axolotl, be sure that you are prepared to upgrade to a larger enclosure.
Co-Habing
If you are planning on having more than one Axolotl in the same tank, there are a few things to keep in mind.
First, make sure that the axolotls are around the same size. If one of the Axolotls is significantly bigger than the other, the smaller one may be at risk of getting injured, or even eaten. While axolotls can regenerate limbs, there’s not much one can do when faced with a far larger and potentially territorial tankmate.
For anyone interested in keeping a small axolotl and a large axolotl in the same aquarium with a divider, please refrain from expressing any form of shock or surprise if the smaller axolotl ends up eaten anyways. A divider is rarely adequate protection when axolotls are curious creatures who will attempt to cross a partition in any way possible. For anyone interested in keeping both a small axolotl and a large axolotl alive in the long term, consider multiple aquariums. Once both axolotls are fully grown, they may share the same aquarium.
For each number of Axolotls in the tank, there should be somewhere for them to be able to hide from each other, to avoid getting stressed out. Be sure to include plenty of caves for both hiding inside and climbing on top of.
Finally, keep axolotls of the same sex together. Do not have a male and a female axolotl in the same tank, unless you are an experienced breeder prepared to deal with hundreds (potentially thousands) of axolotl eggs. While they are very cute, most people are not prepared to handle this scenario. Furthermore, the female will be bred to death if not separated from the male.
Please note that a divider will not prevent a male and female axolotl from reproducing within the same enclosure. Axolotls do not require physical contact with one another to reproduce.
Note- It is nearly impossible to tell the sex of an Axolotl until it is an adult, in which case it will either grow visible testicles (male) or not grow testicles (female).
Other Animals
It is generally recommended to keep axolotls without other species. This is for a number of reasons.
First, axolotls are a cold-water species with a recommended temperature range of 60-68°F (15-20 °C) and a maximum accepted temperature of 72°F (22°C). Not a lot of animals are going to be comfortable long-term in that temperature range.
Please note: The ideal temperature to keep your axolotls at is around 64-65°F. Temperatures below this range will sexually excite a mature axolotl. Temperatures 69°F and above will start to make your axolotl sick. 72°F and above often prove to be fatal for axolotls.
Second of all, axolotls are delicate, squishy, quiet, and defenseless animals that must be handled with care. Many fish are prone to nipping at Axolotl gills, which won't make them happy.
Third, axolotls have a large bioload (aka, they poop a lot). It is important to keep the tank clean, which will only become more difficult when adding other species.
Do not put snails in with your axolotl. If your axolotl attempts to eat the snail, the shell can harm the axolotl, as they cannot digest it. If the snail happens to climb on the axolotl, it will eat the axolotl's slime coat.
Accessories
Feel free to add décor to your aquarium, so long as it is aquarium-safe, and does not contain sharp edges. Fake plants, things to hide in, etc., are perfectly acceptable to enrich the life of your axolotl.
To help your axolotl utilize more of the space in its enclosure, consider adding platforms to the sides of the aquarium. While axolotls do not leave the water, platforms intended for turtles to bask on can serve as adequate perches for axolotls, just remember to keep the platforms fully within the water with enough room for the axolotl to remain fully submerged while resting on them. While axolotl hammocks are more heavily advertised, we have found that they are not as preferred by the axolotls, and often do not stick to the sides of the aquarium as well as those intended for turtles.
Get an air stone to help with oxygenation of the water.
Filter
Axolotls generate a lot of waste (aka, they poop a lot). For this reason, it is recommended to use a hang-on-back filter that is rated for the size of your tank at a minimum. When keeping more than one adult axolotl in a tank, use a filter that is rated for slightly larger than your tank size.
Remember that water flow in the tank should be at a minimum. Axolotls prefer slow-moving or stationary water.
Substrate
Axolotls are better off without substrate. Why? They will eat it.
This isn't entierly intentional, however. The issue with axolotls is that they create somewhat of a vacuum with their mouths whenever they consume food. Any substrate that is in the path of this suction will also be consumed.
If an axolotl is attempting to eat a worm that is resting on top of some gravel, for example, the result is that the axolotl will consume the gravel alongside the worm. An axolotl that consumes tiny rocks is also known as a dead axolotl.
To avoid having a dead axolotl, do not put it in a tank with gravel.
If you really don't want to put your axolotl in a bare-bottom aquarium, you may use fine sand - so long as the axolotl is at least 5 inches in length. Any smaller than that, and there is little chance that the animal will be able to survive inadvertedly injesting sand.
In the wild, axolotls spend their time in find mud.
Water Cycling
Cycling a tank is very important to establishing proper water conditions for any aquatic species. Cycling a tank is where you introduce beneficial bacteria into your system. This bacteria is required to convert the ammonia found in the waste of fish (and axolotls) into nitrates. Managing tank waste is important to keeping your animals happy and healthy.
Through a two-stage process, the bacteria converts the ammonia into nitrites, then the nitrites into nitrates. Ideally, nitrate levels in your tank should be below 40ppm (parts per million).
The bacteria responsible for this conversion are:
- Nitrosomonas (converts ammonia into nitrite)
- Nitrobacter (converts nitrite into nitrate)
- Nitrospira (converts nitrite into nitrate)
We sell this bacteria in a bottle, that you can add it to your tank prior to adding animals. It is impossible for a tank to cycle without something inside it producing waste, so add whatever you’re planning on living in there after the bacteria. Trying to cycle a tank without anything living to produce waste will cause the cycle to stall.
Using a water testing kit is critical to monitoring the levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in your tank.
Water Changes
How frequently you do water changes; and what percentage of the water you change is going to depend on how big and established the tank is. A water change is removing some or most of the water in a tank and replacing it with fresh water. This can be done using a water pump, though what is most convenient will vary depending on the size of the tank.
For the first month, we recommend 50% water changes weekly, followed by 50% water changes every 2 weeks thereafter. If you live in a city and your water contains chlorine, don’t forget to treat the water with dechlorinater before introducing your pet as chlorine is harmful to axolotls.
A small bin of medicated water being used to treat a sick axolotl would require daily water changes consisting of 100% of the water being replaced.
Here at Axolotl Galaxy, we do 90% water changes every month, due to having such a large system with so many tanks.
Ideal Water Parameters for Your Axolotl:- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrite: 0 ppm
- Nitrate: less than 40 ppm
- pH: 7.4-7.8
- Temperature: 60°F-68°F (15°C-20 °C)
If you noticed your water parameters are incorrect, do a 50-75% water change immediately.
Color Variations
Green Flourescent Protien (Also called "G.F.P.")
Axolotls labeled as "GFP" will glow green when exposed to blue lighting. Any variant of axolotl can be GFP. When present in lighter color variations (such as albinos or melanoids) it can be possible to see that the animal has this trait without the use of blue lighting. The degree to which a GFP axolotl will glow will vary from axolotl to axolotl.
Wild-Type
The most common of axolotl variants, wild type axolotls have what can be consider a "default" coloration. Without any selective breeding, this is what an axolotl looks like. Wild type axolotls generally appear brown, sometimes with green or yellow colorations mixed in. Sometimes, wilds will be referred to as "light" or "dark" depending on their overall color. The gills can vary from deep magenta to black. Their eyes are typically black, and have gold reflective eye rings.
Starburst Wild
Starburst wilds look very similar to typical wilds. However, they are generally darker in color and have large iridophores that cover most of their body. Starbursts typically appear balck (or very dark brown) with shiny spots throughout the body. Like wilds, their gills can vary from pink to grey to black.
Melanoid (Also called "Mel")
Melanoid axolotls typically appear solid black, but can range in color from light grey to dark black. Their eyes are solid black. Any axolotl with a reflective or otherwise shiny eye ring is not considered a mel.
Axanthic
Axanthics typically appear gray in color with spmewhat of a spotted pattern. They have black eyerings. Their gills can range in color from grayish pink to gray.
Golden Albino
Golden albino axolotls are the original albino forms of wilds. These axolotls have reflective eyerings and transparent pupils. They can have shiny bits on their gills and throughout their bodies. Their gills can range between different shades of pink. Golden albinos can range from light or pale yellow to deep orange.
High White Golden Albino
These albino axolotls look similar to regular golden albinos, but have large white patches.
High Iridophore Golden Albino
These albino axolotls look similar to regular golden albinos, but have large shiny bits covering their body.
Melanoid Albino
Melanouid albinos can have yellow patches on their body, giving them a yellow appearance. Their bodies can range from appearing white to pale yellow to pale pink. Their gills range in color from light pink to deep red. Their eyes range in color from yellow to transparent to red to light pink. They have non-reflective eyerings.
Leucistic (Also called "Leucy")
Leucistic axolotls have bodies that range from white to light pink in color. Their gills are typically pink. They generally have silver or gold reflective eyerings and dark pupils.
Melanoid Leucistic/Leucy
Melanoid leucistic axolotls overally look very similar to leucistics. They have bodies that are light pink or white, and pinkish gills. The difference is that these axolotls have no iridophores, and therefore have black eyerings.
Dirty Leucistic/Leucy
Dirty leucistics have white/light pink bodies, pink gills, and black eyes. They have dark spots that range from brown to black on the tops of their heads. Sometimes, these spots can continue down onto their backs.
White Albino
White albinos have completely white bodies without any yellow present. They can have shiny bits on their gills and reflective eyerings. Their gills generally appear pink.
Axanthic Albino
Axanthic albino axolotls lack all pigment and have non-reflective eyerings. They appear pale pink in color with pink gills.
Copper
Copper axolotls are, well, copper! These axolotls are shiny with gold reflective eyerings and red pupils. They have the same coloration as pennies. Their gills are darker than their bodies, though still appearing shiny and brownish.
Copper Axanthic
Axanthic coppers look very similar to regular coppers, but without the shiny iridophores. They have a somewhat purple hue to their bodies, and black eyerings.
Copper Melanoid
Melanoid coppers look similar to axanthic coppers, but have darker copper colored bodies. They have black eye rings.
Melanoid Axanthic Copper (Also called "M.A.C.")
M.A.C.s do not have any shiny bits. Their bodies have a chocolatey color, and they have black eyerings.
Non-Albino Golden (Also called "N.A.G.")
These axolotls are very shiny with silver eyerings, and a black tipped tail. Their bodies are similar in color to that of a light copper. These are very rare and tend to be smaller than typical axolotls, as well as sterile.
Mosaic
Mosaics occur randomly when two or morphs blend together. This is quite uncommon and cannot be specifically bred for.
Lighteningbug and Firefly
These are axolotls that are made in a lab via cutting the tail off one axolotl, and swapping the tail with that of another axolotl. The finished look can vary depending on the axolotls that have been altered. A melanoid with the tail of a leucistic grafted on the end of it will appear half black and half white, with the color change split down the middle. Axolotl Galaxy does not and never will produce this variation.
What To Get
Looking to set up an enclosure for a single axolotl right away without thinking too much further about it? Here's a list.
40 gallon aquarium (to house the axolotl)
Tetra Whisper EX 70 Silent Multi-Stage Filter (to keep the tank clean - this is not a replacement for regular water changes)
Water Conditioner (If you have city water as opposed to well water. This is to dechlorinate the water, to make it safe for your axolotls.)
Salt Mix (to prevent or treat fungal infections)
European Nightcrawlers or Red Wiggler Worms (to feed the axolotl).
Aquarium thermometer (to ensure that the temperature is around 64-65°F)
Chiller (If you are unable to keep the axolotl in a cool location such as a basement)
Live Nitrifying Bacteria
Plenty of caves, plants, etc for enrichment
Air stone & Air pump (for oxygenation and enrichment)
Axolotl