Introduction
What even is an axolotl?
Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders. That means that these amphibians spend all their life in the water. While they can survive for a few minutes out of water, they’re happier if they don’t have to.
Where do they come from, originally?
Axolotls originate from a handful underground lakes located in the caves underneath Mexico City, Mexico. Due to a number of factors, such as pollution and the introduction of invasive species of fish, axolotls are considered critically endangered in the wild. Due to this status, it is illegal to remove wild axolotls from the wild. (Note that all of our axolotls are captive bred, and legal to own.)
Appearance
So how big do they get?
Freshly hatched Axolotls start off barely the size of a grain of rice, a size far too small for purchase. Growing quickly at around 1 inch per month, these fragile babies are adoptable juveniles once they reach around 2-3inches. At around 4-6inches, we consider an Axolotl to be a sub-adult. Once an Axolotl is more than 6inches long from head to tail tip, we’re ready to call that an adult Axolotl. While final size can vary from Axolotl to Axolotl, (with an average of around 9inches) fully grown adults can reach up to around 18 inches in length!
Feeding
What do they eat?
Here at Axolotl Galaxy, we primarily feed our axolotls live worms. Juveniles are fed blackworms & small red wrigglers, sub-adults are fed red wrigglers, and adults are fed European nightcrawlers. In case you’re curious, freshly hatched babies are fed baby brine shrimp (ever seen sea monkeys? That’s what those are).
How often do you feed them?
We recommend that you feed your Axolotl 1-2 appropriately sized worms daily. Simply clean off the worm, then use a set of curved feeding tongs (with the tip facing away from the Axolotl) to safely present the worm to be eaten. Axolotls have poor eyesight, so don’t worry too much if they miss the worm on the first try.
Enclosure
Any enclosure you have is going to require a filter and frequent water changes.
Tank Size
For juveniles, we suggest a tank with a minimum of 10 gallons. For an adult, a minimum of a 20-gallon long aquarium is preferred. Whether you decide to start off your juvenile with a smaller tank to be upgraded later, or just begin with a larger aquarium is up to you!
Co-Habing
If you are planning on having more than one Axolotl in the same tank, there are a few things to keep in mind.
First, make sure that the axolotls are around the same size. If one of the Axolotls is significantly bigger than the other, the smaller one may be at risk of getting injured, or even eaten. While axolotls can regenerate limbs, there’s not much one can do when faced with a far larger and potentially territorial tankmate.
Next, there should be an additional ten gallons of room per Axolotl (ex. 30 gallons for two axolotls, 40 for three, and so on). For each number of Axolotls in the tank, there should be somewhere for them to be able to hide from each other, to avoid getting stressed out.
A final thing to keep in mind is the sex of the axolotls. Keep males together or keep females together. Otherwise, they will breed, and you will end up with eggs. If you are not a breeder and are not prepared to deal with up to a thousand eggs in your tank, avoid this scenario via keeping axolotls of the same sex together.
Note- it is nearly impossible to tell the sex of an Axolotl until it is an adult, in which case it will either grow testicles (male) or not grow testicles (female).
Other Animals
Before adding other creatures to the enclosure, there are a few things to consider.
First, axolotls are a cold-water species with a recommended temperature range of 60-68°F (15-20 °C) and a maximum accepted temperature of 72°F (22°C). Any other species you decide to toss in there must also be a cold-water creature (such as goldfish).
The same with keeping more than one axolotl in there, it is suggested that any other fish also be of an appropriate size, so they don’t get eaten.
Do not put snails in with your axolotl. If your axolotl attempts to eat the snail, the shell can harm the axolotl.
Accessories
Feel free to add décor to your aquarium, so long as it is aquarium-safe, and does not contain sharp edges. Fake plants, things to hide in, etc., are perfectly acceptable to enrich the life of your axolotl.
Substrate
If you plan on putting something like sand at the bottom of your aquarium, it’s best to wait until the axolotl has reached around 4-5 inches in length. Up until then, bare bottom is the way to go. Why? If a smaller axolotl ingests sand, it can impact their digestive system, causing severe health issues (or even death). Once your axolotl is big enough, feel free to add aquarium-safe sand along the bottom. Do not put gravel in the enclosure, or there will be similar issues if ingested. Sand only.
Water Cycling
Cycling a tank is very important to establishing proper water conditions for any aquatic species. Cycling a tank is where you introduce beneficial bacteria into your system. This bacteria is required to convert the ammonia found in the waste of fish (and axolotls) into nitrates. Managing tank waste is important to keeping your animals happy and healthy.
Through a two-stage process, the bacteria converts the ammonia into nitrites, then the nitrites into nitrates. Ideally, nitrate levels in your tank should be below 40ppm (parts per million).
The bacteria responsible for this conversion are:
- Nitrosomonas (converts ammonia into nitrite)
- Nitrobacter (converts nitrite into nitrate)
- Nitrospira (converts nitrite into nitrate)
We sell this bacteria in a bottle, that you can add it to your tank prior to adding animals. It is impossible for a tank to cycle without something inside it producing waste, so add whatever you’re planning on living in there after the bacteria. Trying to cycle a tank without anything living to produce waste will cause the cycle to stall.
Using a water testing kit is critical to monitoring the levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in your tank.
Water Changes
How frequently you do water changes; and what percentage of the water you change is going to depend on how big and established the tank is. A water change is removing some or most of the water in a tank and replacing it with fresh water. This can be done using a water pump, though what is most convenient will vary depending on the size of the tank.
For the first month, we recommend 50% water changes weekly, followed by 50% water changes every 2 weeks thereafter. If you live in a city and your water contains chlorine, don’t forget to treat the water with dechlorinater before introducing your pet as chlorine is harmful to axolotls.
A small bin of medicated water being used to treat a sick axolotl would require daily water changes consisting of 100% of the water being replaced.
Here at Axolotl Galaxy, we do 90% water changes every month, due to having such a large system with so many tanks.
Ideal Water Parameters for Your Axolotl:- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrite: 0 ppm
- Nitrate: less than 40 ppm
- pH: 7.4-7.8
- Temperature: 60°F-68°F (15°C-20 °C)